We dined at Elizabeth last night for my birthday. I'm not a fine-dine novice, but I haven't done much at this scale (this is probably the most expensive meal of my life, and the beverage additions cost more than a nice ethnic meal for the two of us). Fantastic food and flavors. I've got Achatz' Alinea cookbook, and much of that food appears to challenge your conception of what food is -- very little of what we had last night is manipulated to that extent: it's all identifiable as food.
I did not take photos of the food, but I do have the Fall Menu:
IMAG0038IMAG0040If there were themes to this, I'd say fermented, mushroom, smoke, and venison, all of which put in multiple appearances. Sweets were always balanced with savory, and the savories never were oversweetened (a gripe I've had about a few meals I've had recently, I'm looking at you e+o).
The menu is broken into "Amuses" and "Compositions" although some of the amuses have more composed items, and are more complex, than the compositions.
The first plate has three bites (actually a couple took a couple bites), the best of which was a crisp bread with steelhead roe and creme fraiche, proving that old standards still work. The chocolate-drizzled spiral-cut potato didn't wow (snail roe!? never seen that ingredient). The third bite was a celery root with a couple sauces and garnishes whose details escape me now.
The next dish was outstanding. It's labeled "smoked vegetable jerky" but I called it "vegan charcuterie": sous vide then smoked beet, parsnip, carrot and burdock each seasoned differently. The carrot was the best of the bunch, with some honey on it, but the burdock with mushroom and broccoli dust was nicely crunchy.
The Bear Rice Crispy is identical to pictures above, so far as I can tell. Fun, kind of weird to be licking it off a stone.
The mushroom tea also matches the above presentation: the cocoa nibs add some nice flavor to the deep, deep mushroom tone.
The Centerpiece Twigs is an understatement on the menu, and one of the best-tasting dishes of the night (another classic prep): A fried barley "twig" is crumbled into pureed potato, with a poached quail egg and shaved truffles. It was served in a beehive-shaped mug with a small top, probably to stop people from licking out the servingware.
Bread Service is another understatement: Butter was good, but the smoked bone marrow custard is all I want to put on bread from now on. Not a lot of marrow flavor, but rich and smoky.
Dried Apple and Chips is described as a play on nachos, but the chips are dried scallops, and the sauce bits of dried apple in a sweet glaze. It's delicious, with the funky fishiness balanced with the sweet, but SueF ruined it for me by saying the chips reminded her of fish food, and she's right: The flakiness and fishiness are almost a perfect match for
Tetra Min.
The Shrimp Noodle is a more substantial serving than pictured upthread, with brioche crumbs and butter lemon sauce. The texture is almost exactly that of the shrimp, not a noodle, making it very interesting.
Venison and Dark Rye is an open-faced sandwich, with venison tartare, ricotta and a bunch of other things I've forgotten. Probably the best bite of the night. The tartare is more dense and chewy than typical beef tartare, making it a meatier experience I liked quite a bit.
Fried Woodland Mushroom is again very much like upthread, and outstanding (better than when Captain Porky's has Hen of the Woods? Maybe a bit, but not much). This was accompanied by a mug of venison bone broth with scallions, outstanding.
Foie-Owl, Brioche and Preserves: I should have kept some of the brioche for sopping up sauces later, and man, that's good bread. The foie is very buttery (as is the bread), and the preserves intensely flavored of the blackberry, but not very sweet. Loved it.
Grains and Beef Heart is probably the one miss of the night: it was still very good, but I don't think it worked as well as everything else. The heart was a bit tough even in tiny cubes, and didn't seem to either match closely or contrast enough with the grains and parmesan.
Bird with Cauliflower and Fermented Fruit was a beautiful roast chicken (each of us served what looked like half a breast and a piece of leg). Perfectly roasted, with a broth that I don't know how it could taste so much of butter while being so clear. The fermented fruit was cippolini onions and fennel -- neither of which are fruit, and the cauliflower puree was smooth enough to seem like an aoili. Wonderful.
Desserts each had ice cream: Pear, smoked buttermilk, and I forget the third but it had an apple-molasses drizzle. A few texture problems (neither the pear nor the pie crust could be cut easily with a fork), but flavors fantastic. Loved the smoked buttermilk ice cream, have to figure out how to do that. Mignardise included a salted porcini caramel, the chocolate almond cookie pictured above, and a fantastic canelle.
I was less thrilled with the non-alc beverages: these behaved more like additional courses rather than accompaniments to refresh and clean the palatte: Elderflower Kombucha tasted wonderful, but the aromas were a bit weird for me (I've never had kombucha before). The second was pumpkin, fennel and cranberry, and had a slick mouthfeel (probably from the pumpkin) -- it got better toward the bottom when the fennel came through, perhaps I should have given it a stir. The spiced carrot was just OK. The Pomegranate roibos wasn't to my taste (but SueF liked it). The winner of the bunch was the ginger-lime soda, which is more like what I was expecting from a beverage pairing, but arrived somewhat late to the game -- I think I'd have preferred it at the start (and again throughout, perhaps).
Service was astoundingly good, and it's a meal I can recommend to anyone who can afford it. (After spending that much on one meal, I think I need to donate an equivalent to a hunger fund)
What is patriotism, but the love of good things we ate in our childhood?
-- Lin Yutang