Behavioral wrote:Decided to introduce a few friends to La Chaparrita and happy to report that the tacos and aguas frescas are as good as ever.
My friends were a bit suspect of the deliciousness of tripe and they've now converted to the good side.
Can confirm, I am one of those friends. Man, I could wax poetic about this place for a real long time. I doubt any of this is news to the good folks of LTH, but, whew. That was something.
I am not the biggest fan of offal. Actually that's probably underselling it. I actually can't stand a lot of those cuts. They make me gag.
Not to say I haven't given these less-than-desired bits the ol' college try, but it's a texture thing for me. Intestines are a mixture of chewy and crunchy, little pops of cartilage between the molars that never seem to dissolve or break down. Stomach, with those little folds and creases, is often covered with the smell of rotting grass, all the more difficult to clean out. And tendon, like the type often found in pho, is immensely chewy, squeaky even, unless it's cooked down so far that it becomes pure gelatin, in which case it's like biting into beef flavored jello. That ain't for me quite.
It just takes incredible skill to coax these organs into something tasty.
But La Chaparrita did it with that tripas taco. My. God. It's honestly shocking; you could pass those strips of small intestine as any high-end cut of slow cooked meat, but firmly browned and deeply flavored. It's like bacon, but better, sort of like a mixture of heavy browned meat and delicately quivering, tender fat. There's no off-flavor, no funky or grassy element, it's just pure, intense, meaty glory, folded between two almost unnaturally soft, delicate tortillas (which I can only assume are made by El Milagro but it was fire). I saw them dipping said tortillas into that cauldron of sausage and meat they keep other fillings bubbling away in, using the juices to steam them and impart some additional complexity.
The other tacos I had were also super good, and far more approachable. But the tripas is in a league of its own. It's not only the best taco I've ever had, but one of the better bites of food I've had.