For years, Little Bucharest beckoned at the corner of Ashland and Wellington, but it always made me feel sad for the disappearance of its cross-street neighbor, the Yugo Inn, where I happily dined on sheep's brain in the innocent 80's, before both Srebrenica and mad cow disease, and I never went in. Eventually Little Bucharest closed, and I could feel sad for the passing of both, though I'd never made it inside the second.
This morning my fiancee and I were traveling down Elston when I noticed that a nondescript corner north of Addison had become, well, descript. A fountain, a fresh coat of paint, Little Bucharest is back.
We returned tonight for dinner. It's an elegant interior with nice woodwork, some traditional embroidery on the tables, a bar that traverses the main room while managing to look like it fits in.
We scanned the menu and queried about the free glass of wine with entrees. From the look on the waitress's face, our guess is that the offer was outdated, but they honored it with a nice glass of a dry Romanian red. We started with an excellent Ciorba (soup) de Borscht and a roasted red pepper salad which the be-ringed woman compared to the spiced, sliced orange dish we made from last week's Times magazine recipe. She continued with vegetarian goulasz. I began smiling at her and laughing late in the meal, not wanting to spoil the joke by letting her in on it. She had cornered the last couple bites with her fork, pushing the couscous together. I had always assumed it was a religious thing - her habit of never cleaning her plate - a sort of daily leaving for Elijah or something, but her actions were speaking -- she was going to finish! I think she liked it.
I had Sarmaluta - cabbage stuffed with several kinds of meat with a light overlay of tomato sauce , on a bed of polenta. I didn't leave any either. We'd love to report on the desserts -they looked very good. But we were just too full to keep going.
The one down note was the pre-recorded music accompanying the live singers. We assume the pre-recorded music was off-key, since the alternative was to believe the band was singing that far offkey. We give it a big recommendation, but you might check the website to see who is performing first.
Little Bucharest
3661 N. Elston
http://www.littlebucharestbistro.com/